Middens, also known as shells, were once used to mark vibrant communal points where Indigenous people cooked and gathered. For loved chef and proud Bundjalung man, Mark Olive – Midden is the new home of his culinary haven – one that is equal parts culture and cool.

Taking residence at The Sydney Opera House, Midden by Mark Olive embraces Mark’s Indigenous Australian heritage, playfully infusing the menu with native spices – from aniseed myrtle to bush honey and saltbush.

Since the harbourside venue’s opening, Midden by Mark Olive has become a magnet for celebrities, foodies and media personalities who are eager to experience his thoughtfully curated menu. And it comes as no surprise, the menu is adventurous, trendy and exactly the kind of dining experience Australians were longing for.

I start with the Damper – which takes me right back to cherished memories of my childhood. Mark’s rendition brings life to the soft, doughy bread with the addition of eucalyptus whipped butter. I then ventured further to the Indigenous Australian Grazing Plate which features an array of NSW regional cheeses, native thyme hummus, smoked kangaroo, emu and quandong paste. Perfectly paired with Wangolina Winery’s Lagrein – a brooding and dramatic wine that hails from the Limestone Coast (Meintangk and Boandik Country).

Mark’s food philosophy is simple, in fact, he summed it up so eloquently to me. He creates dishes that are simple yet refined with good food that anyone can put together. And although I’d love to be able to whip up tandoori crocodile with as much ease and sophistication as him, I can see his passion for every element of Midden’s menu.

It’s native ingredients like wallaby and crocodile offered at an affordable price in Sydney’s most iconic setting, which makes this restaurant rise above other, fine-dining venues in the city.

Diners are encouraged to be daring and try mains such as Braised Wallaby Shank and Damper crumbed cauliflower, which is served on a rich, velvety aniseed myrtle carrot puree – highlighting how native ingredients have become synonymous within the fine-dining scene.

After the nearby theatre foyer rush, a smiling Mark greets patrons and pops over for a chat. ‘I’m just a man from Dapto’ – Olive exudes the same charm on TV as he does in person. For us, the menu is an awakening however for Mark he has been doing this since the 80s’. ‘It’s just that now everyone else is ready’. Treating me like an old friend, we chat all things food and Midden, a space he has partnered with Doltone House Hospitality Group to bring his vision to life.

I end the night with double chocolate river mint mousse, served with roasted macadamia wafers. Each dish feels like a triumph – Mark Olive has once again invigorated our city’s food scene in the best way possible for food enthusiasts and culture seekers alike.

Midden captures the essence of Sydney’s diverse, culinary landscape while offering a unique opportunity to savour the tastes that have shaped this land.

Midden by Mark Olive is open for lunch, dinner, pre-theatre meals, and native high-teas.

Reservations for the new harbourside restaurant are open now.

 -Caitlin
When she’s not globetrotting Caitlin Martin loves to scope out Sydney’s hidden gems, with a camera and coffee in hand. Follow her adventures @caitlineliseeee

Disclosure: The Plus Ones were invited guests of the Sydney Opera House and Doltone House Hospitality Group.
Image credit: Yazzen Omar