The Grub Food Van is more than just a van, even if it is an incredibly beautiful 1965 Airstream one. It’s an experience.
There’s nothing better than sitting in the Moor Street garden in summer, nibbling terrines and cheeses from a changing menu that features fresh produce — most of which owners Tim Mann and Mark Murphy grow on site. During the chilly months, dining moves indoors into what Tim and Mark describe as the ‘Grub Hole’, a cavernous greenhouse space filled with plenty of tables, an open kitchen, a bar, ping pong, and podcasts of This American Life in the toilets.
‘A warming feast by the fire’ was how The Grub Food Van heralded its winter menu launch, and that’s exactly what it was. With a cosy wood fire, beautifully decorated tables, and mulled wine, it was like being welcomed into someone’s very large and very cool home.
The team at Grub Food went out of their way to create a memorable evening. My +1 (The Modern Con and Brunch Addict’s Scott) and I were treated to all that is good about winter-y food. Dish after dish of beautifully prepared shared plates arrived on the table. Once the inevitable paparazzi food writer flurry of cameras and best angles was out the way, audible moans of pleasure were all that could be heard.
Housemade venison and quince terrine; pumpkin and goat’s cheese arancini; rolled garfish with pea purée; salmon rillette crostini; and duck liver parfait were only the start. Then came steamed mussels; roast vegetable stew; spiced chicken with wild rice, lamb meatballs; autumn vegetables; and a very rich and satisfying osso bucco with fresh pappardelle.
Dessert was very modestly-labelled petits fours which, in reality, translated to a large board with an array of nougat, mini apple and cinnamon doughnuts, chocolate truffles, banana and cherry custard pastries. A. Mazing. With delicious Australian wines, beer, and some very lovely cocktails, I will certainly be going back for more.
You too can be part of the ‘glamping’ revolution and spend some winter evenings in the greenhouse. From 1 May, Grub will be serving dinners every Tuesday to Saturday. Grab someone lovely, or a group of your friends, and head for the van.
Jo Rittey is a freelance writer and French teacher caught up in the myth she can cram as much as possible into every day, devouring life like a large crème brûlée.
Grub Food Van
87-89 Moor Street, Fitzroy
Dinner served Tuesday-Saturday from 1 May.
Disclosure: The Plus Ones were invited guests of Grub Food Van.