If there is one thing we love more than a mid-week excuse to pop some corks, it is celebrating a milestone that tastes genuinely world-class. Last night we stepped out of the Melbourne chill and into the warm, buzzing ambiance of Harriot for a masterclass in premium Australian sparkling: Jansz Tasmania’s 40th Anniversary Celebration Dinner.
Let us be honest, when you think of legendary sparkling wine houses, your mind usually drifts straight to the Champagne region of France. But back in the mid-1980s, a bold vision took root in the pristine soils of Tasmania’s Pipers River. Named after the intrepid Dutch explorer Abel Tasman (Janszoon was his middle name), Jansz Tasmania became the island state’s very first sparkling house dedicated entirely to the traditional method – and we were here to celebrate four years of excellence.
Guiding us through an epic lineup of 14 sparkling wines were two people who know bubbles inside and out: Jansz master winemaker Teresa Heuzenroeder and sparkling wine guru Tyson Stelzer. There was zero pretentious, stiff-collared sniffing going on here. Instead, every single pour came alive with stories of the vines, the rich heritage of Jansz Estate, life in Tasmania, and the sheer alchemy required to create a world-class drop. The evening was a living history lesson, demonstrating all four decades of the estate from the ultra-rare and quite unusual 1992 Late Disgorged Vintage Cuvee all the way to the pristine Pontos Hills Vintage Cuvee 2017, a bottle specially crafted to celebrate the opening of their Coal River Valley winery in 2021.
Good sparkling wine demands elite-tier snacking, and Harriot’s award winning chefs delivered a menu that played second fiddle to nothing. We kicked things off with fresh Boomer Bay oysters and bold bluefin tuna and porcini mushroom tart alongside crusty fresh sourdough slathered in rich cultured butter.
So why is Tasmania competing on a global stage alongside the world’s best? As Theresa and Tyson put it, it’s all about the fierce ocean breezes, cool climate, rich soil and dramatic vineyard landscapes that mirror some of the conditions of land-locked Champagne. From my own perspective, I think being literally half-way around the globe some European traditions have thankfully been left behind to make way for delicious modern Australian expressions that match our countries climate and palate. By focusing primarily on classic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and occasionally tossing in a cheeky whisper of Pinot Meunier, Jansz carved out a distinct identity that puts traditional French houses on notice.
Because no Tasmanian feast is complete without dairy royalty, we swooned over selections from Bruny Island Cheese Co., proudly showcasing their C2 Super Gold and Island Saint. At this point we had moved onto some excellent Jansz sparkling rosé from a variety of years and techniques. Across all of this range of Pinot Noir-led blends, the balance of freshness, texture and subtle fruit notes really stood out to me. It was also fascinating to compare the 2011 late disgorged vintage rosé with another 2011 vintage matured under cork. Both were excellent though we couldn’t go past the complex savoury marzipan and brioche from the extensive time on yeast lees found in the late disgorged expression – luckily our waiter was more than happy to let us try a little more of this one!
The main featured a stunning plate of Tasmanian blue eye surrounded by luxurious beurre blanc and caviar. Golden crispy potato galette and charred brassicas dressed in a punchy mustard vinaigrette really rounded out this course and our final special wines which showcased the Jansz 100% Chardonnay and single vineyard wines. White wine & fish have never not been a match, but there was something extra special about these pairings. We finished things off with an individual, perfectly caramelised apple tarte tatin paired with ice cream and burnt caramel goodness.
Fourteen wines later, floating out into the Melbourne night air felt remarkably easy. Jansz at 40 is not just surviving; it is thriving at the absolute top of its game, proving that Tasmanian sparkling does not just deserve a seat at the global table, it deserves to head it up. Here is to the next four decades of bubbles and brilliant company!
– Tomas
Tomas Zagoda is a freelance filmmaker, writer, coffee addict and tall person who does not play basketball. You can follow him @TomasZagoda.
