If you had told me five years ago that the same brand responsible for my polo shirts and smart winter jacket would also be behind one of the most exciting new dining destinations in town, I probably would have laughed you out of the room.
Kiwi brand Rodd & Gunn has been known for quality menswear for decades. Whether its worn in the corporate office, climbing a mountain or sailing on a yacht, you’re bound to have seen a classy gentleman donning clothing featuring their iconic English Pointer emblem at some stage.
Yet, walking down into the subterranean Cellar Caffetteria, part of their enormous global flagship, it all makes sense. The space is as well-tailored as their linens, exuding a warmth that makes you want to settle in and stay awhile.
It’s a fully fledged bottle shop too. The walls are lined with takeaway options, heavily favouring the rolling hills of New Zealand and the cool climates of Tasmania, though the rest of the world gets a look in. I found myself particularly drawn to a shelf simply labelled ‘Interesting Wines’, a bold claim that happily lived up to the hype.
Naturally we couldn’t just stare at the bottles, especially when acclaimed bartender Matt Bax, best known for Bar Americano, was behind the creative cocktail menu developed in what they have dubbed ‘the lab’.
We kicked things off with a Limoncello Margarita, a drink that sounds like a clash of cultures but tastes like a holiday. It had a fantastic mezcal smokiness that cut right through the sweetness of the house-made limoncello, which you can see infusing in large glass jars around the venue.
It was the perfect primer for a spread of starters that felt like a tour of the Mediterranean.
We shucked down fresh oysters dressed in a Prosecco mignonette and tore into fresh warm focaccia, slathered in ricotta and a punchy salsa verde and an charred cherry tomatoes sitting on a bed of pureed cannellini beans.
The vegetarian plates were the surprise heavy hitters here; the spinach torta with salted ricotta, peas, and fresh lemon was bright and spring-like, but this being an Italian-leaning affair, the pasta was non-negotiable.
We shared the fresh paccheri alla norma, a comforting hug of a dish featuring eggplant, tomato, smoked mozzarella, and basil. However, the visual showstopper was the asparagus tortellini.
They were almost too pretty to eat, delicate little parcels with sprigs of asparagus resting on top that felt incredibly modern.
For the mains, we kept the sharing spirit alive. The grilled swordfish, served with zucchini blossom and tarragon, was beautifully restrained, letting the quality of the fish do the talking.
On the more indulgent side was the chicken cotoletta, essentially a schnitzel that went to private school, drenched in a delicious anchovy and caper brown butter sauce that I would happily drink by the cup.
Do not under any circumstances skip the sides; the crispy potatoes with samarillo and gorgonzola are a masterclass in richness. We also loved their heirloom tomato and roasted capsicum salad which was served with croutons made from left over focaccia.
By this point my waistline was protesting, but my heart said dessert. And when the menu looks this good, you listen to your heart.
We squeezed in the ricotta, roasted almonds, and amaretto caramel gelati, which was texturally perfect and served in a delicate silver dish.
But the real winner for the chocolate lovers was the mousse al cioccolato. It’s a dark chocolate mousse elevated with a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of salt, a combination that sounds simple but tastes sophisticated.
Walking out, I realised Rodd & Gunn has managed to pull off the ultimate crossover. They’ve created a venue with four distinct levels that compliments their clothing line and stands entirely on its own two feet when it comes to hospitality. We’re sure you’d love to visit their stunning Lodge Dining Room for a degustation, a fine cocktail in the darkly-lit Member’s Bar or do some retail therapy in their flagship store.
Just maybe buy the pants in a size up if you’re planning on staying for dinner.
– Tomas
Rodd & Gunn’s Flagship Melbourne store is located at 280 Little Collins Street.
The Cellar is open Monday from 5pm, and Tuesday to Sunday from 11.30am for takeaway vino or a delicious dining experience, bookings are recommended.
This venue is accessible.
